Hemming and Chainstitch Guide – Blue Owl Workshop

For true denim enthusiasts and jean aficionados, the hem on their denim is as important of a detail as the selvedge ID. We at Blue Owl are proud to offer our hemming services for both mail-in and same-day in-store services.
* Hemming is a free service for all denim purchased from Blue Owl

It doesn't matter whether you're picking up your first pair of raws or are a seasoned fader, the hem on your denim needs to be spot on. Some folks like to cuff their denim, some like the stack, and some like to let their ankles have all the breathing room they desire. Whatever the case, inseam length matters, as does the way you get your jeans hemmed. For more information on achieving your perfect length, feel free to check out our how to cuff guide.

Using our second-generation Union Special 43200G sewing machine dating from the 1950’s we are able to provide the same stitch in tandem with the same machine used on denim from the early-mid 19th century. Our Union Special is one in a handful still operable in the United States, as most were bought up and shipped internationally to denim manufacturers in Japan. With our stockpile of parts, machines, and expertise, we hope to continue offering chain stitch hems on the antique machine for years to come.

The chain stitch is a traditional type of stitch used to hem jeans, found on most artisan-made denim and antique pairs. It consists of two separate threads that “chain” together to keep your hem in place. Our Union Special 43200G machine specializes in this stitch. The feed dog of the machine pulls the denim as the stitch is being set, which allows for the highly desired "roping" effect along the hem edge to occur with wear over time. Below are some examples of the chain stitch and roping effect.

Raw denim chainstitch roping

To give you a better idea of how we hem our jeans, we’ve outlined the steps we take to hemming below with accompanying imagery.

How we hem our denim:

1. Measure the denim - We measure along the inseam, as described in our Measuring Guide and mark the desired length with tailor's chalk. For in-store hems, we are able to measure your custom length with the denim on; otherwise, we ask you to specify what inseam length is preferred.

2. Measure the denim again. - We always double-check the measurement. Once you cut it, you can't go back. We cut one leg, make sure it matches up with the chalk marks on the second leg, and then cut that as well.

3. Prepare the hem fold - The hem consists of a double fold onto itself, which is then held in place by the chain stitch. We like to make a small initial crease to make sure the denim flows through the machine smoothly. We take into account the hem fold when measuring for an accurate length.

4. Stitch - Our Union Special stitches down the fold we created and continues to stitch while we fold the rest of the fabric by hand as it runs through the machine.

5. Lock and trim the thread - To ensure that the chain stitch doesn't unravel, we make a knot at the end and then trim the excess. No burning is required.

6. Mirror - Repeat steps 3 - 5 on the other leg and the chain stitch hem is complete.

View our available denim services below: